Kanchenjunga BC to Tumlingtar GHT
Nepal

• We have extensive experience organising GHT Section 1 in October 2024, 2023, 2014, and 2013. For more information on how these treks went please take a look at our Trip Reports in the Reports and Reviews tab.
• We are Himalayan trekking specialists having operated trips in Nepal for many years. Roland Hunter has designed the itinerary from his first-hand experience of this trek.
• Based on client feedback we won the 2018 Gold Award as AITO Tour Operator of the Year. Read more about our Testimonials and Awards.
• We have included a gradual ascent profile in our itinerary for this trekking holiday. This will help you acclimatise to the high altitude.
• Twin share tents while on trek using our Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 tents. These are three-person domed tents with plenty of space for two people sharing plus gear.
• We review weather forecasts for the Kanchenjunga and Makalu regions throughout the duration of this trek.
• We send a Thuraya satellite phone on our group treks in Nepal. Your leader will have reliable communications for logistics, planning, and group safety. We use GPS to upload your location daily onto Google Maps to track your progress during the trek.
• We provide the porters with windproof jackets & trousers, crampons, and shelter. We follow International Porter Protection Group (“IPPG”) guidelines.
• We provide a range of tasty meals for breakfast, lunch, and supper. For protein, we bring freezed chicken from the UK and pulses, lentils, and soya from Kathmandu. We also have a vegetable dehydrator in Kathmandu so are able to bring a range of vegetables on the trek. We give everyone in the group a chocolate or muesli bar per day. For breakfast, we provide fresh coffee from our Bialetti Moka coffee machine.
• We bring a comprehensive medical aid kit. There will also be a portable altitude chamber (PAC or Gamow bag).
• Our team with first-hand knowledge of this trek provides pre-trip support. During high season we have someone from our UK Operations team based in Kathmandu.

Flying into Kathmandu on a clear day is in itself an unforgettable experience. The Himalayan peaks are only a short distance north of the capital of Nepal as seen from the plane. After customs, you will pass into the passenger pick-up area outside the building. You will see a Mountain Company signboard. Our representative will be waiting to welcome you to Nepal. After transferring to your hotel we will give you a full trek briefing. The rest of the day will be yours to explore Kathmandu and to make final preparations for the trek. You will hear the Nepalese word for hello ‘Namaste’, you will never forget that word after this holiday.

This morning your leader will give the trek briefing and check your gear. We will collect your passports from you so that we can apply for the trekking permits. The rest of the day is free to explore Kathmandu and to pack your bags. You can leave a bag at the hotel with items not needed on trek.

We take the morning flight to the small airport at Bhadrapur in the East of Nepal. We drive in a private bus to the town of Ilam where we spend the night in a hotel. This region is well known for its tea plantations and Darjeeling is not far away on the Indian side of the border.

Important note: there is a safety risk to consider when flying on airlines in Nepal. For information about the aviation risk in Nepal read the relevant sections “Threat and Risk Assessment” and “Internal flights in Nepal”. Please get in touch with us if you would like to discuss this further.

We leave early in the morning around 5 am and drive through tea and cardamom plantations. After driving for an hour and a half we stop for breakfast en route. Along the way, we get our first magnificent views of Mount Kanchenjunga. We drive onto Taplejung where we meet the trekking crew. After lunch, we start the trek by following a steep trail down to the Tamur River. The trail can be slippery so it is best to use two trekking poles for stability.

From camp, the trail descends to the Tamur River passing several villages. This is a fertile area with crops including rice, millet, potatoes, and vegetables. There is a descent to a wooden bridge crossing the Thiwa Khola. Today we follow the jeep track and come off it in places by taking shortcuts on the bends. We are walking up the valley next to the Tamur River and up to Chirwa. This village has a bazaar, some lodges and shops. We camp a short walk from the village in a large field near a large boulder.

From Chirwa, we ascend to the road and walk on the right side of the Tamur Khola for about 1 hour then cross over to the left side for a further 2 hours until stopping for lunch at Phembu. Cardamom is grown in the forest around here. It is an important cash crop for the local community as it grows well in the middle hills of East Nepal. After lunch, the trail ascends above the Tamur River to Lelep at an altitude of 1,750m. We continue on the left side of the river for a further 2 hours walking on a mix of trail and jeep track. We cross a suspension bridge over the Tamur River to enter the more narrow Ghunsa Khola Valley. From here we walk uphill for a short way up to Sekathum and then we camp in the garden of a lodge. From here you get the first views of the high Himalayas where Jannu is visible on a clear day up the Ghunsa valley.

After a short walk in the jeep track from Sekathum camp, we cross the suspension bridge and follow an undulating trail through a forest in a dramatic gorge. After 2 ½ hours of walking and crossing two more suspension bridges, we arrive at the village of Phaktanglung for an early lunch. After lunch, we hike along an undulating trail on rocky staircases and pass in and out of several gullies. After a further 2 ½ hours, we reach Amjilossa high above the gorge where we camp for the night.

On leaving Amjilossa there is a short ascent to a ridge. We walk through lush bamboo, oak, and rhododendron forest. The trail has lots of ups and downs following the Ghunsa Khola. The trail condition is often slippery on rocky staircases and over tree roots. It takes 3 ½ hours to reach our lunch spot at a small clearing with a blue hut just before the metal bridge. After lunch, we cross the steel box bridge and follow the river for 20 minutes. Then 30 to 40 minutes up a steep rocky staircase sometimes through a small side valley before arriving at Gyabla settlement at 2,730m. It takes about 1 hour to reach our camp from the lunch spot.

From Gyabla, the valley opens out and we walk along an easier path for most of the way to Phole. It takes about 3 ½ hours to walk to Phole. It starts to get cooler today as we climb above 3,000m. The vegetation changes with more rhododendrons and azaleas. Before Phole, we pass through the winter settlement used by Ghunsa villagers.

At Phole village there is a monastery and you are likely to see the women weaving carpets. It takes a further 1 ½ hours to reach the larger village of Ghunsa. This is a Tibetan village with wooden houses covered in colourful prayer flags. There are lodges and shops and a small Kanchenjunga Conservation Area office. We camp in the garden of one of the lodges and will use their dining room for meals. There are hot showers available in the lodge. It is possible to stay in a room at one of the lodges for an extra charge payable to the lodge owner.

We spend two nights in Ghunsa for time to rest and acclimatise to the high altitude. It is a good idea to walk in the morning as this will help your acclimatisation. We follow the route above the village to Lobsang La. This walking trail reaches 4,000m in about 3 hours from camp and 2 hours to return to Ghunsa.

After leaving Ghunsa we walk through pine and rhododendron forest. We are on the east bank of the Ghunsa Khola and pass Buddhist mani walls and chortens along the way. After three hours we cross a bridge over Ghunsa Khola. We usually stop for lunch in a grassy area called Rampuk Kharka (3,720m). Today the mountain scenery becomes ever more spectacular. The north face of Jannu towering above is dramatic. Be careful and wear a helmet when crossing the landslide before Khambachen as there is a risk of rockfall. The trail contours the hillside and then descends to Khambachen. This is a Tibetan settlement with houses nestled in a grassy plain with mountains all around. It is possible to stay in a room at one of the lodges for an extra charge payable to the lodge owner.

We spend two nights at Khambachen at an altitude of 4,100m for essential acclimatisation. In the morning you can join a walk. This helps your body adapt to the high altitude by following "climb high, sleep low". The walk up Nupchu Khola from Khambachen is well worth doing for the impressive views of Mount Jannu. For a longer walk you can head up to the Jannu shrine at 4,400m. This is a 5 to 6 hour walk there and back.

From Khambachen the trail is along a lateral moraine. We pass through a seasonal yak herder’s camp at Ramtang at an altitude of 4,370m. The vegetation is azalea, juniper, and rhododendron. After an hour or so the trail becomes rockier and we pass under a landslide area where you should wear your helmet for protection. Keep moving at a steady pace and keep alert for any rockfall. We also have a river crossing along the way. 

After about 3 hours of walking, we stop for lunch in a safer place. After lunch, it is a further 2 hours to Lhonak through rocky areas and cross moraines northwest of the Kanchenjunga Glacier. The campsite at Lhonak is near several basic lodges. There are superb views of Wedge Peak (6,750m), Mera (6,344m), Nepal Peak (6,910m), and Twins (7,351m) among others. It is possible to stay in a room at one of the lodges for an extra charge payable to the lodge owner.

From Lhonak we follow the trail on the lateral moraine of Kanchenjunga Glacier for two hours. We have to cross a river and pass through several sections of loose rock and landslide area. The trail climbs to reach the stone huts in a grassy area at Pangpema in a further two hours. The view of the vast north face of Kanchenjunga from Pangpema is very impressive. After eating our pack lunch we start the return walk back to Lhonak, taking about 3 to 4 hours.

We walk back along the same trail through Kambachen back to Ghunsa village.

After a tough few days at altitude and a long walk from Lhonak yesterday most groups enjoy their first real rest day of the trek so far. In the morning you can do some washing and have a chance to sort out your bags as well as recharge batteries in the lodge. You can also explore the village as it is well worth visiting the school and the gompa across the bridge.

We descend the main trail from Ghunsa for about ½ hour and turn right at a trail junction. We follow a smaller trail up the side valley following the Yangma Samba Khola. We take about 45 minutes contouring around a ridge with some steeper sections of trail. After following the river there is a steep diversion off to the right to cross a side stream in a gully. We continue up a steep and indistinct trail that goes up the left side of a rocky run-off. It finally flattens out at 4,100m as we reach the Kharka where there is a cook hut and toilet.

It takes about two to three hours to reach the top of the Nango La pass. From Kharka, the trail ascends to bowl around 4,500m and then heads north more steeply with a couple of false ridges before the prayer flags on the pass come into view. From the top, we can see Lopsang Peak and also Mirgin La trail over to the south side of Kanchenjunga. 

The trail coming off the pass is indistinct but we follow some small cairns and finally descend down the centre of a valley. On the right side of the valley, we cross a small stream and then descend through muddy rhododendron bushes and onto the top of a ridge with a stream below. We descend off to the right, contour around, and eventually next to the river, staying on the right. The path is muddy and rocky and finally emerges just after the tree line to a Kharka with a cook hut.

From Kharka, the path goes down through rhododendrons and contours around. After 45 mins or so the path splits and we turn right at an indistinct junction to continue to contour. We continue contouring sometimes up and down until the path then goes down steeply a couple of times, once through a steep rocky gulley.  It continues to contour before dropping again to the Yangma Khola. We follow the bank of the river up to the right for 100m to find the bridge where we turn left.

The path follows the Yangma Khola downstream but sometimes across exposed rockfall areas and sometimes climbing high to avoid gulleys. After about an hour there is a waterfall feeding a small stream to cross. Shortly after there is a bigger side river that we cross on a bridge. About 30 minutes later, after more ups and downs, there is a small hut that makes a reasonable lunch stop. This place is about 3 ½ hours from Kharka camp. After lunch, the path continues to go down and around and after ½ hour it descends sharply to a small side stream and then climbs very steeply up concrete steps.  

There is a long climb and there are railings where the drop is exposed. There is a concrete platform with views of a waterfall across the valley means the top is near. The path curves around to the right above the river to join the main track to Olangchungola. This is about 1 ¼  hours after lunch. At the main track turn right to Olangchungola (or left for Taplejung). A path leads steeply off to the right just before the road fades out. We walk to the top and the road reappears by some prayer flags. From here we can see the Olangchungola monastery in the distance. It is then a steep narrow path with switchbacks to reach the village.

In  Olangchungola, we use a dining room in a building where it is possible to get hot bucket showers and recharge batteries.

From Olangchungola, we follow the ‘road’ to the Tibet border. This was constructed by the locals and then stopped by the Kanchenjunga Conservation Authority. It is already heavily degraded by landslides but makes a convenient path up to the confluence of the two rivers as it has a reasonable gradient nearly all the way.  Where the rivers meet the road goes right/north and our path heads west across a small wooden bridge. The stone-laid path is very clear and initially climbs above the river it then rejoins it after about 10 mins and then follows alongside. An hour or so from the bridge and shortly before the camp, the trail breaks right up a hill to get over the rise and arrive at the rather another Kharka camp. There is a wooden hut with two rooms.

From camp, we walk on a stone path and then after 15 minutes, we cross a stream (sometimes there is a bridge other times not). We continue walking along a good stone-laid path going gradually up for about 1 ½ hours. Then the stone path ends and it is a steeper climb up a ridge with various false ‘summits’ and into a hanging valley. From here you see a blue wooden hut but this is not our camp. After crossing a river on a bridge follow the flat valley with yaks grazing to a trail that leads up to a high ridge (approximately 100m). Our camp is about 20 minutes from the ridge.

After an early start, we head to the West on a rocky trail. It is quite steep in places until we gain a plateau with views of a lake. From here we see the prayer flags on top of the Lumba Sumba pass. From leaving camp it takes 4 hours to gain the first pass at 5,050m. It takes a further hour to contour around to the second pass higher at 5,100m. There are tremendous views from both passes of Kanchenjunga and Jannu to the East and Makalu to the West. From Lumba Sumba we descend into Lapsi Khola Valley following some cairns and keeping mainly to the right, finally arriving at a camp spot near some big rocks and a stream. It takes about 3 ½ to 4 hours from the pass to camp.

The view of Mount Makalu in the morning from camp is superb and it dominates the view to the West. We follow a trail through rhododendrons and a forest to the right-hand edge of the valley.  The Lapsi Khola is on our left but after an hour we cross it on a wooden bridge. Then shortly after we had to recross on rocks to rejoin the path right next to the river marked by cairns. There are a number of small streams to cross and we contour around and down sometimes across small bridges. After 4 hours we arrive at the Tibetan village of Thudam. We camp in a grassy area opposite the village over a bridge.

We leave Thudam early this morning as this is one of the most difficult days on the Kanchenjunga GHT trek. Shortly after leaving Thudam, we cross a landslide area that requires care and attention, you should wear a helmet for protection. After 1 ½ hours we reach a small grassy area with large rocks. From here we follow a very difficult section of the trail with steep rocky traverses and a slippery trail for the rest of the day until our camp at Yak Kharka. From the Kharka we climb up 300m to a small pass with signs which we reach after 90 minutes of walking. The path continues down and up and down and around. It is very steep at times with long drops and significant exposure to the side so care is needed. The trail is on slippery mud and leaves and there are greasy tree roots to clamber over. After 3 hours there is a porter platform and from here the path goes steeply down but on laid stones. The path makes its way around and over ridges and side streams. After 5 hours there is a blue-roofed house in an area of bamboo and this is known as the first kharka. We continue onwards and cross two bridges; the second, after 6 hours, is quite rotten but means you are only 25 minutes from the huts at Yak Kharka camp.

From Yak Kharka camp, the trail becomes indistinct in places through bamboo and dense forest. We ascend about 150m steeply at times to a saddle and then contours around much like yesterday. After a while, it starts to descend and after an hour there is a small outcrop with a view across to Chyamtang and the road to China carved into the white rocks. The immense scale of the Arun Valley becomes apparent. We descend to the Arun Valley with around 1,000m of descent on a muddy, rocky slippery path. After about 1 1/2 hours of descent the path is less steep and drier with less mud. We reach a suspension bridge over the Arun Khola after 4 hours of walking. There is a spot near the bridge for lunch. After crossing the side suspension bridge the path winds up steps for 400m to reach Chyamtang. This takes about 2 hours from the bridge. Chyamtang village is spread out but there is a hotel at the far end of the village with a well-stocked shop.

From Chyamtang, the route initially follows the jeep track but cuts corners. After ½ hour the track goes off to the left across a clearly-marked helipad and down through scattered houses. After ¾ hour after passing under a sign for the Yangla Hotel and Groceries, there is a police checkpoint on the right where permits are supposed to be checked. We continue down to Chepuwa on the lower path to arrive at the village via a small wooden bridge and then a short suspension bridge just downstream from a water-powered flour grinder. At the edge of the village, we keep right and then right again to follow a thick water pipe straight up to the top of the village. 

At the T-junction, we turn left with the pipe and walk along the top edge of the village. It drops briefly on the edge of the village and then climbs a broad stone-laid path to the bottom of the tree line and then up through rocks and trees to five small chortens. This takes about 2 hours walking from Chyamtang. From here the trail contours around and up and then plunges steeply down with a big drop on the left where care is needed. Then it winds its way around up and down, until after 3 ½ hours of walking we reach some buildings and terraced fields and there is a view of Hongon. After that, it is a further hour contouring around and down to a long suspension bridge and then steeply up to Hongon. We walk up through the village past the school to the very top by the main road where we camp.

We use it as a rest day or keep as a contingency day in case needed for later in the trek.

From Hongon the trail traverses through villages and fields high above Arun river. After Chepuwa you descend to Arun River at 1,650m and cross a bridge then start the long ascent to the ridge at 2,800m. The trail descends through forest to Namse at 2,200m and further down to Hatiya village.

We follow the trail above Arun River and then descend to valley level for lunch spot at Gola. After lunch, we continue down the Arun Valley to the roadhead at Barun Dovan.

Today we take jeeps along a rough road via Num to Chichila. Further down we pass the busy market town of Khandbari. We continue driving through terraced fields to Tumlingtar.

We take the flight from Tumlingtar back to Kathmandu.

Transfer from hotel to Kathmandu airport for your flight back home. End of trip.